Fashion

20 Years of Loving Libertine

In case you were wondering, yes, Johnson Hartig, the force behind the fashion brand Libertine, is just as cool as his “punk-esque” and whimsical chic label, which truly reflects his own personality. Libertine, known for its edgy embellishments and striking silkscreen prints, has also resonated with a wide range of consumers, including celebrities – almost all of them, in fact.

Everyone from A-list actors to rock stars, including Gwyneth Paltrow, Cher, Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Beyonce, Stephen Hawking, The Killers and everyone in between is a fan of the brand, which is currently celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Not only has the stylish label sustained itself for two decades, but it keeps growing to reach new generations. Sarah Jessica Parker is even wearing a Libertine coat and hat in a recent cover story for Vogue. A pretty chic “cherry on top” anniversary gift.

Let’s just say that Libertine was designing with skulls before skulls were a thing. While many of his original designs have gone mainstream, which has left Johnson frustrated at times, he does admit that he is also somewhat flattered. This dedicated designer just wants to make sure that the fashion world remembers that those designs were in Libertine’s DNA first, and they will always continue doing it their way – and remain stronger than ever. They are Libertines, after all!

The secret to their style? Well, secrets. “We create beautiful clothes, but we never take ourselves too seriously,” explains Johnson. “We are always including insider and subtle secrets within the clothes. There are lots of poetry and art references which appeal to a certain type of person who is into the same things. It is an incredibly unique brand.”

Johnson also acknowledges his satisfaction regarding how much influence the brand has wielded while remaining a small team. Despite larger companies essentially emulating his concepts on a larger scale, Johnson has remained good friends with his biggest supporters, including Betty Halbreich, the 94-year-old fixture of Bergdorf Goodman. Halbreich, who can be found on the Bergdorf’s sales floor almost every day, calls Johnson on a weekly basis with the latest news on who is wearing his designs – or who is trying to copy him.

Aside from finding Libertine fashions in high-end retail stores, clients are invited to experience Libertine in the intimate Los Angeles showroom, which can only be described as a candy store for design lovers, with plenty of chic eye candy.

While he is known for his many adventures abroad (especially when you follow his Instagram), Johnson was able to keep himself busy when the pandemic put any traveling plans on hold. He had a new house to decorate and decorate he did, for the better part of five months. His interior aesthetic has been featured on the cover of many magazines, which is why his fashion fans can have something new to look forward to – a new home decor line, so we will all be able to truly live the Libertine life!

After finally being able to travel again, with Spain and Istanbul some of his first post-pandemic destinations, Johnson is excited about his latest project with Desigual, which is launching in March. “Christian Lacroix, who I have admired more than anyone from the last 50 years, is the person who recommended me. I had a Schumacher collection with wallpaper and home fabrics and am working on another one launching next September. I’m talking to people about doing tabletops and bedding and the whole bit.”

Johnson also explains that there is an “authenticity to the brand, and you really feel it, along with the love that goes into each garment which is touched by real human beings. It has heart, it has soul, it has energy.”

Perhaps it is this feeling which is why Libertine is adored not just by celebrities, but also other fashion legends. Johnson recalls when Karl Lagerfeld, a big devotee of the brand, walked into the studio in New York and bought every piece available. “I would see the whole Chanel crew come through wearing Libertine! Karl invited me to a gala and gave me a matching high-collar shirt and people were taking pictures of us, but I never saw it. That was before smartphones.” (If anyone has a picture, please let us know!) There is even a Libertine piece on view at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, which was purchased by Karl, though the skull on the back was covered up with beading due to Karl’s fear of death.

Libertine has certainly come a long way since Johnson, along with his partner Cindy Greene, started the anti-fashion fashion brand in Koreatown 20 years ago. It only makes sense that to honor this longevity, the last couple of collections honored some of the brand’s original ideas, including a lot of hand silk screening. “It seems really fresh again after so many years. Bringing back these designs feels like a super renewed energy – I feel like every day I’m meeting someone else who is just discovering the brand and that energizes me so much. I’m living in the gratitude of having been provided with this incredible creativity and curiosity.”

Johnson and his brand might be basking in their anniversary year, but Libertine lovers still have a lot of fashion to look forward to.