From Music to Myth: What New York and Moscow Fashion Draws On
New York Fashion Week was once again packed with runway shows and presentations. The schedule opened with Henry Zankov’s debut at the helm of Diane von Furstenberg, where the house’s heritage is explored through the language of knitwear, and closed with Thom Browne, whose show is closer to a theatrical production than a conventional collection presentation. It also featured runway presentations by Khaite, Prabal Gurung and Anna Sui, showcasing three distinct artistic languages: restrained American tailoring, cultural storytelling rooted in heritage and romantic maximalism – ranging from clean architectural forms to family memory and bohemian, musical imagery.
Cultural codes – music, painting, traditions and iconic places – are also reflected in different ways in the collections of designers at Moscow Fashion Week, which will run in the Russian capital from September 26 to October 1. This is the largest event focused on emerging fashion, bringing together brands from Europe, Asia, Africa, Latin America and the United States. In the new fall season, the event’s program includes shows by brands from the United States, the United Kingdom, Russia, Türkiye, Spain, China, Nicaragua, Sri Lanka, India and other countries.
Reflections in Collections
The upcoming Moscow Fashion Week participant, Turkish designer Murat Aytulum, has built his collection around the word ‘Selam’ – an Eastern greeting that he has turned into a bridge between cultures. “Because the first movement that will change the future, beyond all technological and social transformations, is always being able to say ‘Selam’ to one another,” the designer says. The men’s silhouettes in his collection are interpreted through Eastern motifs and techno-textures, while traditional codes meet contemporary tailoring. His fellow Turkish designer and future partner in a joint show at Moscow Fashion Week, Gökhan Yavaş, draws inspiration for his Armored Silence collection from the landscape of Mount Naejangsan in South Korea.
Russian designers featured in the Moscow Fashion Week program also work skillfully with artistic imagery and their cultural heritage. For example, Vereja draws inspiration from historic wooden architecture, incorporating these motifs into its collections. Masterpeace brings back vivid details from different cultures encountered on its travels, combining them with the brand’s signature lace and embroidery. Yakut brand Inniki draws on the aesthetics of the Far North, where strict geometry meets botanical forms, while Igor Gulyaev builds looks around fur – a signature material of the house: oversized ushankas, capes and vests balance lightweight, flowing fabrics.
Fashion Across the Ocean
Moscow is also drawing the attention of the American fashion community, with Nichole M. Bess, founder of New York’s Noir Fashion Week, attending the shows. American designer Nailah Lymus, founder of Brooklyn-based brand Amirah Creations, will also make her Moscow Fashion Week debut. She combines contemporary silhouettes with influences from modest fashion: flowing caftans and kimonos are paired with structured dresses and statement outerwear, while bold prints, rich textures and layering give each look its distinctive character. Inclusivity is at the heart of the collection, with pieces designed for women of different cultures, backgrounds and body types.
For Nailah Lymus, the Moscow show is an important step in expanding the brand. In the designer’s words: “Moscow Fashion Week is becoming an important platform for emerging designers because it provides an opportunity to present their work within an international fashion environment. For independent brands, that kind of visibility can open doors to new relationships with media, buyers, stylists, creatives, and other industry professionals. International participation can help emerging designers strengthen their credibility, expand brand awareness, create valuable content, and begin developing relationships in new markets.”
The connection between fashion and film is another important theme developed by the Moscow event. Since 2023, Moscow Fashion Week has hosted World Fashion Shorts, a fashion short film festival and unique multimedia installation. One of the longstanding names on the World Fashion Shorts expert council is David Fernando Martínez Lugo, better known as Dfaniks. A U.S.-based director, producer and founder of New York’s Cinettica Fashion & Art Film Festival. Dfaniks describes his philosophy this way: “Fashion as a way of cognition and a tool for revealing individuality and diversity.”
by Abigail Miller
