Fornino’s Artisan Pizza Is Redefining What New York City Eats
By Jahleah Santiago
Fornino is still quietly and confidently rewriting the rules of pizza in New York City after being widely credited as the catalyst for the artisanal pizza movement. The Brooklyn-born institution is the lifelong vision of Chef Michael Ayoub: chef, restaurateur, artist, and native of the borough.
Michael Ayoub’s story is a testament to New York grit and creativity. With over 45 years of experience, his culinary journey began at age 13 and accelerated quickly—he purchased his first restaurant, Skaffles, at just 20 years old. He later won major bids to cater both the Brooklyn Botanic Garden and the Brooklyn Academy of Music, before opening Cucina in 1989, the first Brooklyn restaurant ever reviewed by The New York Times. In 2004, he introduced Fornino in Williamsburg, a project named after his mother’s maiden name and destined to become a cornerstone of New York’s pizza culture.
Today, Fornino operates four successful locations: its flagship in Greenpoint, a scenic seasonal outpost at Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 6, and permanent spaces at Time Out Market New York in DUMBO and Union Square. Each reflects Ayoub’s philosophy—rooted in Italian tradition but elevated by the science of fermentation, a deep commitment to sustainability, and the kind of culinary intuition that can only come from decades of hands-on experience.
A visit to Fornino begins with a spread of antipasti that strikes the perfect balance of comfort and craftsmanship. At Time Out Market, guests can open their meal with the newly introduced golden Arancini with prosciutto and mozzarella—optionally topped with caviar—while Greenpoint diners can delight in signature small bites like Anna Rose’s slow-simmered Meatballs, crispy Fried Smashed Potatoes with truffle aioli, or the crowd-favorite Crispy Four-Cheese Ravioli. Lighter options include vibrant salads like the Caesar, Gem, or a rotating Farmer’s Market special shaped by the chef’s whim and seasonal availability.
These opening bites set the stage for the heart of the Fornino experience: pizza that honors tradition while pushing the craft forward. Fornino’s menu traces the evolution of pizza through its unique “three generations” categorization. The First Generation options pay homage to true Neapolitan roots with choices such as the Margherita Classica. The Second Generation highlights regional Italian favorites, from the spicy Calabrese to the lush, truffle-kissed Funghi Misti. The Third Generation showcases Chef Ayoub’s original creations—modern, expressive pies like the Vodka Sauce & Sausage or the richly layered Pear & Coppa.
In stride with pushing the bar, Fornino’s gluten-free pie, introduced in 2016 after extensive experimentation, has become a standout for its remarkably chewy texture nearly indistinguishable from the original. The crowd-pleasing dough blends rice, wheat, and corn starches with buckwheat flour—all naturally gluten-free—and is shaped by hand for every order. Though baked in the same oven as traditional pies, it underscores Fornino’s commitment to accessibility, quality, and craft. At the Greenpoint flagship, that spirit continues with the “No-Cut” option, which offers a different kind of accessibility: guests can receive an uncut, par-baked pizza along with simple finishing instructions, making it possible to recreate that fresh-out-of-the-oven Fornino experience at home, complete with the signature crispness, structure, and handcrafted texture.
Beyond the kitchen, Ayoub’s dedication to sustainability runs deep. At his home garden in Southampton, he grows more than 50 tomato varieties, 30 types of chili peppers, and eight kinds of eggplant each year. This homegrown bounty inspires rotating specials across Fornino’s locations, bringing a true farm-to-table sensibility to the menu. It mirrors his broader artistic pursuits as well—pieces of Ayoub’s master-level glassblowing, a discipline that parallels the precision and creativity he brings to his kitchens, are featured as décor at the Greenpoint location.
After more than two decades, Fornino remains a defining force in New York’s pizza landscape—grounded in history, fueled by innovation, and continually raising the bar for what pizza in this city can be.
