Palazzo Artemide: Dreamy Sicilian Getaway
By Delia von Neuschatz
Just off the Sicilian coast of Syracuse, lies the honey-colored island of Ortigia. Connected to the mainland by two bridges, Ortigia is Syracuse’s historical center, its Città Vecchia, its beating heart. And right in the middle of Ortigia, just steps from the Piazza Duomo, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, sits Syracuse’s oldest hotel, the Palazzo Artemide. Taking its name from Artemis, the goddess of hunting and moonlight, who claimed Ortigia as her birthplace, the newly refurbished Palazzo Artemide has been welcoming guests since 1880. Like its surroundings, it reflects the area’s beauty and rich cultural heritage.
The hotel’s elegant pink façade envelops layers of architectural history. Delightful hidden courtyards and a small hanging garden are a nod to Moorish custom while balconies and French windows provide guests with different perches from which to admire the city. The hotel is constructed with limestone used for the neighboring Greek temples and Baroque buildings. The vaulted dining room is built of warm tufa stones, the integral building blocks of the damusi – small, traditional stone buildings that have stood in the area for more than a thousand years.
Palazzo Artemide’s location could not be more central. The Greek temple of Athena, built in the 5th century BC, is only one of its distinguished neighbors. Another, the Cathedral of Syracuse (Duomo di Siracusa), is only steps away. Originally a temple predating even the adjacent shrine to the Greek goddess of war, the Duomo is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Divine monuments aside, there are plenty of earthly pleasures to be had in and around Palazzo Artemide. The hotel’s lounge bar overlooks the animated Piazza Minerva, an ideal site for people watching. This charming spot is also where a delectable buffet breakfast is served daily. And the locale, off of Via Roma, Ortigia’s main street, is lined with restaurants, bars and shops. A brief walk leads to Ionian Sea beaches and refreshing swims in crystal-clear waters.
Recent reviews attest to the setting’s delights: “We had an absolutely wonderful stay at the Palazzo Artemide. Ortigia is a charming town with lively streets, many great restaurants, and cute stores. The hotel is in an incredible location right between the cathedral and one of the best shopping streets. Our room slept three people very comfortably and had a little terrace with a view of the cathedral on one side and the sea on the other! The staff, especially Roberto, were super helpful and thoughtful. The breakfast outside under the big umbrellas was perfect. This exceeded our expectations — we were so pleased!”
There are plenty of enjoyments to be had outside Ortigia too, including organized excursions to the open-air museum that is Noto, classes on the ancient arts of ceramics and mosaics and a volcanological tour and wine tasting at Mount Etna.
But perhaps the most pleasurable pastime of all is journeying back to the hotel after a day of exploration, and before indulging in the restaurant’s Greek and Middle Eastern-inspired cuisine, heading to the patio, spritz in hand, and watching young and old alike take their evening passegiatta. Now that’s a veritable cinema paradiso.
